Fashion designer Tessa Vermeulen wore Chanel’s Mary

Jul 30, 2023

By Emma Spedding

Tessa Vermeulen, the founder of Hai, wanted an elevated, bridal spin on her everyday style for her Italian wedding to Gennaro Leone.

You might assume that working in fashion means there is additional pressure to wow with your look on your wedding day. But designer Tessa Vermeulen the founder of independent fashion brand Hai, ignored all the noise, and was determined simply to find a bridal look that made her feel exactly like herself. The goal? A bridal spin on her signature style. Ultimately, Vermeulen chose not one but three knee-length dresses (two of which she designed herself) that swerved tradition, which she paired with a pair of flat Chanel Mary-Jane pumps. Her fuss-free bridal styling meant she could run through the showers of confetti and kneel in the grass with her nephew, without feeling constrained or uncomfortable for a moment of her big day.

Tessa met Gennaro Leone, the founder of the design gallery Spazio Leone, at a party at St John’s Church in Hackney in 2016, and after a first date at Kew Gardens they became inseparable. She knew marriage was in their future, however Tessa never expected a traditional proposal. But on a countryside escape to the New Forest in September 2022, Gennaro surprised her by getting down on one knee and presenting her with a gold solitaire ring, custom made in Italy.

The couple run through rose petals after their marriage ceremony.

There was no question about where they would get married – the Stoke Newington-based couple instantly settled on Italy – specifically Naples, where Gennaro grew up. This was the perfect opportunity for the couple to introduce their friends and family to their beloved Italian city, and so they planned a three-day celebration, taking guests to their favourite restaurant (Mimì alla Ferrovia), and for a beach day at Marechiaro, a small coastal village in the Posillipo quarter. The wedding itself, on 24 June, took place at Giardino Torre, an ancient royal building situated in magnificent grounds, with rows of fragrant fruit trees and a collection of rare camellia flowers.

The location is beautiful and charming, but unpretentious – a mood echoed in the bride’s choice of wedding dress (or rather, wedding dresses). “I always knew that if I were to get married, I would want to create my own dress,” says Tessa. “For the ceremony, we created a custom dress inspired by a dress my mother designed in the ’80s – I always loved the pointed gathered waist.” She modernised this midi-dress by adding puffy sleeves, an open back and a tie closing with delicate pearl drop detailing. “It’s a very simple and classic design that, looking back in 30 years, I will still love. I felt completely myself in it, which I think is the most important.” Tessa also created a custom waist-length veil, which had layers of ruffles and a baroque pearl droplet to match the pearl fastenings on the dress.

Tessa’s second Hai midi-dress had a simple silhouette and three layers of ruffles.

For the dinner, she changed into another custom Hai dress which she also designed herself, featuring a simple sleeveless bodice and a knee-length skirt, with three layers of dupion silk and ruffles. “I loved the simplicity at the top, contrasted with the details and volume at the bottom,” Tessa explains of her idea for this dress. She was going to stop there, however by chance found another midi-dress by Noir Kei Ninomiya which she decided was perfect for dancing. All three dresses share a similar aesthetic, however Tessa’s reception dress has a more overtly romantic feel, thanks to the layers of delicate tulle that flow from the otherwise simple cotton vest dress.

Despite trying on several pairs of high heels, Tessa ultimately decided that she didn’t want to be “wobbling down the aisle”. The designer wears either Mary-Jane flats or loafers most days, and so settled on a classic pair of white Chanel Mary-Janes with a contrast black toe cap. They proved so perfect she wore the shoes with all three dresses. “I love classic yet playful designs, but I’m also quite a practical dresser (very Dutch of me!),” says Tessa of her decision to pursue a more relaxed take on bridalwear. She did adhere to the “something old, something new” tradition, however, wearing a pearl necklace and bracelet from her own fashion label (which also served as her “something blue” as all of the pearl pieces have a blue chalcedony droplet), and borrowed a pair of diamond stud earrings from her mother.

Keep reading for more details from Tessa and Gennaro’s magical, outdoor wedding in Naples.

Article originally published on vogue.co.uk

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“It was truly the most special weekend, to have our family and friends travel from all over the world to be with us was just incredible!”

“I didn’t have a wedding party or dress code and we wanted everyone to wear whatever they wanted and feel comfortable in, although there was a lot of Hai to be seen! Everyone looked incredible!”

The couple always knew they wanted to get married in Naples, where Gennaro is from. The ceremony, dinner and party all took place at Giardino Torre, which is located within Bosco Capodimonte (a beautiful museum with gardens overlooking Naples).

Friends and family gather ahead of the ceremony.

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“Driving up to the ceremony with both my parents I was incredibly nervous,” remembers Tessa. “But as soon as I saw Gennaro surrounded by all our friends and family, that was replaced by pure excitement.”

Tessa walks towards the ceremony flanked by her parents and her nephew, Willem.

Willem, who wore a custom linen navy sailor suit, ran straight towards the groom in all the excitement.

Gennaro wore a custom-made double-breasted dark blue suit by Don Raffaele (his favourite Neapolitan tailor), and Church’s shoes.

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